Definitely some rough roads along the way, and it's amazing how much they could change from the time we were on this road heading north almost two weeks ago.
Now, it was rough two weeks ago too! But some of the sections that were smooth then, were rough now, and vice versa depending on a lot of variables like moisture, how many vehicles traveled it wet, where the graders were last... stuff like that. I'm just trying to point out that road conditions change quickly, and what was good two days or a week ago, may not be good today!
Here are some pics of the trip...
Setting off at 10:30am.
We stopped at the visitors center of the nearby territorial campground. There, we met Robert, a Gwich'in elder who was hosting the visitors center. What an interesting guy to talk to! He showed us photos of when he did the 600 km (360 mile) trip to Dawson City by dogsled in 1959 with his then 70 year old father!
He talked a lot about how things have changed.
And, we spoke about the language. He is one of the few left who speaks the Gwich'in language, although he says he was surprised last year when a native guy from Alaska came in, and began speaking to him in Gwich'in... "and that guy was just a young fellow maybe 40 or 50 years old... about half my age!"
Robert, in the Nitainlaii Territorial Park Visitors Center.
Ferry across the Peel River.
Gotta say one thing about the ferry operators on both this ferry and the one across the Mackenzie River at Tsiigehtchic. They really take their time to make sure that you don't do any damage to your rig entering or exiting the ferry. Sherman has a long overhang, and sometimes the entrance or exit is at an odd angle. But these guys do whatever they can to make it so that it's easy and safe. Really good!
Scenery along the way.
We stopped at a short trail leading to an overlook, but there really wasn't much to see except a view of Sherman!
The Dempster Highway.
Fox!
We were driving along, and we saw a couple of ptarmigan birds... the male and the female at the side of the road, and they definitely looked a bit out of sorts. Then we saw why... Mr. Fox was looking for a meal, and we're pretty sure that Mr. and Mrs. Ptarmigan lost part of their family just a short time ago!
Coming up to the mountain pass.
Heading uphill.
An odd land formation.
More scenery.
That's the Yukon up ahead!
Back in the Yukon!
We stopped at the parking area at the border and had some lunch. This guy on a bicycle pulling a trailer was getting himself set up for a break. Even carries his own little lawn chair with him! We went and spoke to him. He's been two and a half months on the road. He left from Kelowna, B.C., and has already been up to Tuktoyaktuk and is on his way back south. Wow... more ambition than us. His only comment was that he's getting tired of the rain!
He's got a lot of stuff with him!
On the Dempster Highway facing towards Yukon at the Yukon, Northwest Territories border.
The road ahead.
Beautiful.
Almost to Eagle Plains.
We arrived at Eagle Plains and the first thing we did was head over to the propane fill station. Sherman's tank still showed above the "zero" mark, but not by much!
I asked the price, because if it was too ridiculous, I would only fill it half way or so.
It was $1.40 a liter, which is pricey but I had read it was $1.60 a liter down in Dawson City. Usually in Canada, anything over $1 a liter is on the high side of normal. I decided to bite the bullet and just fill it up. So we got 60.5 liters at 1.40 a liter which came to $84.70 CAD ($65 USD).
This would be a rough ride on the Dempster Highway!
We got ourselves parked up, hopefully in a spot where we're not going to be charged. The truckers manage to come in and not pay to park overnight, and we're not in the way. So far, nobody has said anything. We have an unsecured wifi connection coming from the Yukon Highway Department, and it's marked "guest", so we have decent internet.
Which is good, because we expect to be stuck here in Eagle Plains for at least two nights.
We've been watching a weather system move in, and it's calling for heavy rain all day Wednesday and into Thursday. We know what the road is like when it gets wet, so we'll just wait it out.
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Amazing scenery, it looks greener going south. I read about a bicycle trip being planned from Tuk to Tierra del Fuego! Only for the fit or crazy... have fun waiting out the weather.
ReplyDeletePeter, "it looks greener going south." You read my mind-- I thought the same thing!
DeleteMaybe it is because they have had more rain since we went through just over a week ago!
DeleteThe odd land formation looks like melted permafrost, it collapses and forms muddy sink holes.
DeleteWe were thinking sort of the same thing, you are probably right.
Delete$1.41 per litre in Comox right now, was $1.54 in some places this past weekend, I think you got a bargain! What a tiring bleak road that would be for biking, driving is completely different but that guy has guts
ReplyDeleteAh, but I was talking about propane, and I think you're talking about gasoline...?
DeleteThe scenery looks really pretty to me, and I love the lack of traffic, even if road conditions may not be the best!
ReplyDeleteWe have to admit that the scenery once you get past the mountains at the Yukon/Northwest Territories border plus a little be after that is fairly bland but we do love the lack of traffic!
DeleteWhoops, you need to head back to Tuk to take some magnetic compass readings for me lol. Of populated places in North America, it has the highest positive declination (almost 22° east) and an astounding 82° inclination---meaning the north magnetic pole is almost straight down! That's pretty cool...
ReplyDeleteSorry but we aren't turning back now! If you want to check out this stuff then you will just have to make the trip yourself!
DeleteYou know you can bicycle you there if you want! ;-)
Lol biking in crazy places! Been there, done that, in Alaska---25 years ago it was. The cold rain was horrendous. It was then and there that I realized an RV was the way to go :)
DeleteSomehow knowing that you biked through Alaska doesn't surprise us a bit and after seeing that poor guy and knowing that he was going to be hit with this rain that we have been fortunate enough to sit out in Sherman is enough to realize that having an RV is definitely the way to do this trip. I really hope that he made it to one of the campgrounds with shelters so that he could stay dry while he waits the weather out.
DeleteThose roads sound pretty brutal but the scenery wonderful, enjoy waiting out the weather.
ReplyDeleteI wouldn't say brutal but it sure was much slower going on the Yukon side. The scenery definitely makes up for the condition of the road though! :-)
DeleteOh...the road less travelled. Guess the summer traffic hasn't started yet?
ReplyDeleteNope, we are right in the midst of summer traffic season but even then as you said, it is the road less travelled! ;-)
DeleteDid you have a fishing rod with you as a lot of those lakes and streams seem to have no one trying their luck ?
ReplyDeleteNope, no fishing rods but I am pretty sure you are right, there is probably some good fishing to be had up here.
DeleteSome of your pictures look like miles and miles of miles and miles. Remember what we said about Alaska? It seemed you drove through it now. Enjoy your trip. I hope the sun is coming up to you soon.
ReplyDeleteYes, in some places it has been miles of miles, lol!
DeleteNo, we still haven't left the Yukon, we should be getting onto the Top of the World highway sometime next week, weather permitting of course and then into Alaska.
Wow. That is a great picture of Mr. Fox. Nice black coloring on him/her. I saw a huge black wolf and several lynx when I worked a few jobs in the Yukon in the early 90's. Lots of wildlife bears, moose but never a fox like that! My propane price is currently $.849/L. which I think is pretty high. Please don't forget to stop by for a FREE propane fill at O.K. car wash in Oliver, B.C. Thank you for the diner offer but it's not required. I just want to support this great travel blog that I've enjoyed for many years and say "Hi". I Just installed a 100W solar panel and 4x6V deep cycle batteries in my RV. 29' Jayco Greyhawk Class C with Toyota Yaris tow vehicle on a car dolly. Ready for Alaska! Cheers. Carwash Scott
ReplyDeleteThank you! Actually since we have been up here that is the colouring that we have seen on all of the foxes and we have seen about 5 of them now. Believe it or not, this is considered to be a red fox. We saw one lynx about three and a half weeks ago as we were coming into Dawson City but we still have yet to see any wolves or grizzly bears. :-(
DeleteYour propane price sounds wonderful compared to the prices here. We will be sure to stop by and we realize that dinner is not required but if there is time and somewhere to stay than it would be our pleasure. :-)
Glad to hear that you have got solar installed, we think it is the best thing since sliced bread! Sounds like you are already to take on the north. :-)
Beautiful area but I am sure it will be nice to see more paved roads:)
ReplyDeleteIt is a gorgeous area and yes we are looking forward to some paved roads, even though some of the paved roads aren't in great shape themselves, lol!
Delete